AT first I presumed Monaco only appealed to gamblers rich enough not to weep when luck betrayed them in the casinos of Monte Carlo. How wrong I was. Monaco draws all kinds of rich, such as those who come to deposit money in discreet bank accounts or to spend $500 for two for dinner or to escape inquisitive tax inspectors back home or to park their luxury yachts in the port or to . . . In fact, it turns out that most people who visit or live in the principality are not gamblers at all.