Nothing seems so impossible to keep up with as the number of new restaurants opening in New York on a week-by-week basis in almost every borough. But when a restaurant of the high polish of Rampoldi opens across from Lincoln Center it is a leap of faith. Rampoldi is the first branch of a restaurant of the same name opened in 1946 in Monaco’s Carré d’Or, where it drew those in post-war Europe who still had money to its tables and it became a notable spot for notables to dine in the little kingdom.